Thursday, April 18, 2013

Germany - Hotels




We had a range of hotel experiences in Germany. Mostly we looked for deals through Hotwire.com, and we found some pretty nice places near the areas of town we planned to visit for relatively low prices.
Our first hotel was in Frankfurt: the Best Western Hotel Plaza a few blocks south of the train station, just a street or two north of the Main river. The entry was, naturally, about five steps up from the street, so we had to make Elliott get out and climb the stairs, then carry the stroller with Amelia up the steps every time we came home. The place was nice and clean and convenient, but the breakfast was absurdly expensive, so we got food from a Rewe grocery store nearby.

Here's the view out our room's window.




 Every time we went up or down the tiny elevator there, I would play a game with Elliott to help him ignore the fact that we took up the entire thing with barely room to wiggle (with our luggage we had to go in shifts). I'd sing a sort of techno-sounding song with the ingenious lyrics, "Dance in the elevator! Dance in the elevator! Dance dance dance dance!" and we'd do crazy dances until we felt it slowing, and then say "STOP!" and pretend we had just been standing quietly the whole time. One particularly considerate thing the hotel did was to post a reminder of the end of daylight savings Saturday night, which we had forgotten about completely. If not for that sign, we would have missed church!
There was not much space once we got Amelia's baby bed in there, and I and the kids got cabin fever pretty quickly, particularly when we spent several hours there Sunday afternoon.



In Koblenz, we stayed at the Mercure, located right on the Rhein next to the city offices. Now, I grew up in Amherst, where our town hall was pretty classy-looking, built out of local sandstone and not too bad to look at. Later I lived in Carthage, MO, which had a pretty nice courthouse right in the center of town, too. But I've got to say, Koblenz just knows how to do city office buildings right. Here's the view from our window. You can see the big fort up on the hill, too. The cable car that took us to it was just a few blocks north of us, too, so quite convenient.




And the view from the street.
The hotel was a lot nicer than we expected, and the people at the desk gave us more than a few weird looks when we came in and out on foot with the stroller and looking kind of haggard. But we got good service. Expensive breakfast and dinner again, so we got food from outside. I forgot my shopping bag, so I brought the food home in an extra box from the store. Also got weird looks for that, but Amelia liked it.




In Mainz, we booked a room through AirBNB.com which we'd heard advertised on NPR. We found a nice little flat just south of the Fischtorplatz with a bed in the living room and a small room for the kids, plus a kitchen and bathroom, located close to the old city and, again, right near the river. This is what the Fischtorplatz looks like.



 And from there you could see straight to the Dom.


Everything about it was great except that the lady who owned it had to leave before we got there to pick up the key, and we didn't have email access to get her message saying so. So we spent a bit of money on international calling to the AirBNB customer service center, and they told us she left the key at a little kiosk store just opposite her flat. Unfortunately, after checking all the stores on the block, none of them knew about it. Meanwhile, it was freezing cold, getting dark, and Amelia had a leaky diaper. Finally, the customer service got her in touch with us. Turns out the kiosk store "just opposite her apartment" was actually a store named Kiosk, and it was about a block down the road without an obvious sign, not opposite her apartment. Oh, well. We appreciated the room, and it was a nice change, and it saved us money.


The next place we stayed was the Elite Hotel in Heidelberg right near where Bunsen of Bunsen Burner fame lived and worked. Rachel really wanted to stay somewhere with an old-timey feel, and this place fit the bill. Its rooms were actually located in several renovated houses on the same street, so we stayed in the building across the street from where we checked in. Here's the breakfast room where we only had to pay 6 euros per person for me and Rachel to eat breakfast, and the kids ate free.
It took a while to check in, but the kids were entertained by the cuckoo clock and some Thai tourists who waited to check in right after us.
This was another breakfast room where we could have eaten, with a nice little garden outside and plenty of sun.


 Here's the building we actually stayed in.




The TV had about a gazillion channels, but they had a big binder full of touristy information that included a page of channel listings, and they had programmed all the English channels in a row, so that was convenient. As with most things about Heidelberg, this hotel was probably our favorite one all week.




Our final stay was at the LDS temple patron housing next to the temple in Friedrichsdorf, which is provided for church members who have traveled far from home to visit the temple. On the map linked above, the temple is the big building running north-south in the center, and the rooms we stayed in were at the west corner of the complex. They rented us a whole room with six bunks, fresh linen, towels, and a communal bathroom and kitchen. The kids loved it! It was very clean and relatively quiet. Hopefully our kids crying to sleep didn't disturb everybody in the other rooms.


And the best part was that it was right down the sidewalk from the temple, so we had no trouble taking turns attending sessions there.


Amelia had a hard time each night falling asleep as we slept somewhere new almost every other day. So that was the hardest part of staying in so many hotels. But overall, I'm glad we got to see so many places.

Friday, April 12, 2013

Germany - Food

I am not what most people would call a foodie. I have been blessed with the ability to appreciate good food when I taste it and enjoy most terrible food anyway. So although you may question my judgment if you know that I drink the water from canned tuna before I eat it straight from the can, you can trust me when I say that Germany has some really, really, really good food.
Let's start with the schnitzel. For those of you who, like me, only know schnitzel because it fits in with "doorbells and sleigh bells and ___________ mit noodles", it's easiest to describe by calling it chicken fried steak with pork instead of steak. Of course there are lots of ways to serve it. We tried three or four, I think: on a big slice of bread with a fried egg on top (a la maier), plain with fries on the side, with a capsicum and paprika gravy, and with a mushroom gravy. All of these were very good. Here are two varieties I got for takeaway for our evening in Koblenz. The third plate was a plain brat for Big E.


We also tried a few different kinds of bratwurst. I can't recall if they had any specific names to differentiate them, but one we had at a homestyle kitchen restaurant called Essighaus in Heidelberg's old town had some perfect blend of spices... maybe some rosemary and thyme and allspice or something. Anyway, after a long day of pushing a stroller up and down cobblestone roads in the freezing cold, that really hit the spot.


Practically every train station (not stop, but station) that we visited had at least one little shop selling cold sandwiches on buns or fresh bread or a salty cheese-encrusted roll with cheese and tomatos or cold cuts or cucumbers and cream cheese, or hard boiled eggs, or any number of other variations. I could live off those.
We generally made our own breakfast and lunch from food we bought at grocery stores for pretty cheap. Most stores we found resemble ALDI (which they also have), and had quite reasonable prices. This is in contrast to the hotel breakfasts which were not complimentary and generally ran at least 15 euros per person! So instead, we bought a lot of fresh bread, a variety of cheeses (edam, gouda, and emmentaler--known to us as swiss cheese), mandarin oranges, apples, peanut butter, jelly, and lots and lots of sliced ham! On Easter morning, we had a store-bought loaf of some tasty sweet bread to celebrate. By dinner we were generally cold and hungry and ready to try something authentic, so we ate out most evenings. We also had a mid-morning snack of strudel on the morning we left Heidelberg, and Rachel couldn't resist having some fresh-baked apple strudel a la mode at the restaurant Stadt Berlin our last night in Friedrichsdorf. If you're ever in Friedrichsdorf, eat there! The food was amazing and the host was one of the friendliest, most easygoing people we met there, which was saying something given that we showed up that particular night with a group of about 25 hungry people.
I already mentioned Essighaus in Heidelberg. We also ate in a former hospital turned restaurant called Heiliggeist. Rachel had a nice big pizza, and I had a really tasty orange-flavored penne dish with shrimp in it.



I think that's about all I have to say about food. Oh, it was very nice, but also a little strange at first, to be able to drink the tap water. We can't do that here in Qatar.

Germany - Travel

This trip to Germany was brought to you by the letter ß and made possible entirely by the income Rachel has earned by watching kids each day. So thank you, dear, for taking us to Germany, for paying for our flights there, for getting us an all-you-can-use rail pass, for buying us so much delicious food, and for visits to so many memorable sites while we were there. Thanks also for spending so many days' nap time finding the best places to visit and planning the whole trip! You are a gem.

Going on a trip like this is an adventure for a three-year-old boy perhaps for no reason more than the number of interesting vehicles he gets to ride and see. Within the first 24 hours of our departure from home, Elliott took a taxi, a bus, a plane, a train, and a trolley, and saw more single-purpose vehicles at the airport (trucks with stairs on their backs, baggage trains, portable conveyor belts, plane pullers) than you can shake a stick at. He thought all of this was very cool.



 He also got to ride in a KD boat on the Rhine...

 ...with a playground on top!

 That didn't stop him from treating the inside like a playground, too.
 He rode a a cable car over the river from Koblenz to Ehrenbreitstein Fortress.

 And he rode a funicular down from Schloss Heidelberg...
...but not before riding in his stroller all the way up the hard way (this was one bit of our trip where our research missed one particularly valuable bit of information--the existence of the funicular).

For your benefit (and for my own satisfaction), I have created a map that will allow you to follow the route we took from our hotel to push the kids up the mountain to the palace so that you can appreciate just how grueling a climb it was. Okay, and so Rachel can roll her eyes again at how much I complained about it. :)
Pushing the stroller was a central theme of our trip to Germany, because we only used trains, feet, and a boat to travel once we arrived there. For all the schnitzel and bratwurst we ate, we probably worked it off and then some just by pushing our two kids and our backpacks around on the stroller the entire time.
We were determined not to have this trip be one where we had a thousand things we just HAD TO SEE, when we knew we'd only get frustrated when something inevitably went wrong with a packed  to-do list. Having two children under the age of four in Doha teaches one this lesson very quickly. So instead, we decided that we'd be prepared with a list of plenty of things we could see if we had the energy and if they happened to be convenient, as well as anything that looked interesting along the way, with just two or three things in each city that we really wanted to see. That way, whatever we saw besides those two or three things would just be icing on the cake. And we ended up with a lot of icing!
I would like to state for the record that I love Germany's public transportation system. To live in Europe with such easy access to a comprehensive, extensive, and inexpensive rail system would be a dream. America, I'm sure I'm not the first to say it, but can we get our act together and get a cheaper and more effective public transportation system in place, please? And Qatar... I still hold out hope for you, too. Maybe by 2022's World Cup, eh?
The train stations also generally had luggage lockers, which was nice because it let us explore at stops along the way without having to check into a hotel or something first. The only time it caused a problem was when I didn't realize it charged again after the first 24 hours. So one night in Mainz, I walked all the way from our room by the river to the train station (about 25 minutes) to pick up our luggage only to get there and realize I needed 5.50 euros in coins to even get the key to turn since it had been there more than 24 hours already. I seriously considered pretending to be a busker outside the station just to earn the money, but I decided walking back to pick up the money would be more practical and likely to result in me going to bed some time soon. So back I went through historic Mainz, got the change, came back AGAIN to the station, picked up the luggage, and dragged it back AGAIN through historic Mainz to the room we were staying at. This wouldn't have been so bad if not for all the historic cobblestones which resulted in the outer layer of our luggage's (which we borrowed from my mom) little plastic wheels completely disintegrating into bits. Don't worry, Mom. We'll replace it.
This concludes my first post. They will be thematic rather than chronological, so you can look forward to posts about food, hotels, museums, castles, churches, things that surprised me about Germany, and probably a miscellaneous photo dump for whatever else I feel like mentioning. Auf wiedersehen!